Hyaluronic acid
AntioxidantsA molecule that holds water in the skin's surface layers.
How — Morning and evening, on still-damp skin — otherwise it can dry you out.
Glowaiva · Glossary of actives
Decoding the actives,
one by one.
What it is, who it is for, at what concentration and when to apply it. Filter by what concerns you.
L-ascorbic vitamin C
10–20 %AntioxidantsAn antioxidant that works on radiance and evenness of tone.
How — Morning only. Boosts your morning protection: with vitamin E and ferulic acid, photoprotection doubles (Lin, 2005). Start 2 to 3 times a week.
Niacinamide
5–10 %AntioxidantsA form of vitamin B3. Regulates sebum and calms inflammation.
How — Morning or evening. 5% maximum if your skin is sensitive.
Everything about this active →Salicylic acid (BHA)
2 %SpecialtyAn exfoliant that gets inside the pore, unlike AHAs.
How — In the evening, 2 to 3 times a week.
Retinol
lowest to strongestRetinolsA vitamin A derivative. Speeds up cell turnover.
How — Evening only, ramping up over three months. Contraindicated in pregnancy and breastfeeding.
Everything about this active →Alpha arbutin
2 %SpecialtyInhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme that triggers melanin production.
How — A gentle brightening active, available over the counter. Allow 4 to 8 weeks.
Centella asiatica + aloe
SpecialtyRebuilds the skin barrier. Soothing, clinically demonstrated.
How — Morning or evening, including on reactive skin.
Glycolic acid (AHA)
7–10 %SpecialtyA surface exfoliant that smooths skin texture.
How — Evening only, 1 to 2 times a week maximum.
Sunscreen
SPF 50SunscreenFilters UVA and UVB. Visible light is blocked only by a sunscreen tinted with iron oxides.
How — In the morning, as the last step. Melanin only gives a natural SPF estimated at 1.5 to 4.
Everything about this active →Growth factors
Growth FactorsStimulate collagen production, the protein that gives skin its firmness.
How — In the evening, on clean skin. Clinical data on cosmetic growth factors remains limited: a comfort active, not an essential.
No active for this filter.
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The three habits that keep dark marks going on melanin-rich skin, and what to do instead. Every claim carries its source.
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