Glowaiva · Niacinamide
Niacinamide,
explained in full.
One of the most recommended actives for melanin-rich skin. Most disappointments come from how it is used, not from the molecule.
What it is
A form of vitamin B3, water-soluble. It is one of the best-tolerated actives in skincare: barely irritating, compatible with almost everything.
Why it matters here
What it does
It regulates sebum and it is anti-inflammatory. On melanin-rich skin, inflammation is where the marks begin — less inflammation, fewer traces.
Who it is for
It is for you if
- Your skin is oily
- Your pores are enlarged
- You have redness
- Your complexion is uneven
When
Morning or evening, your choice
It is gentle enough for both. In the morning it pairs well with sunscreen. In the evening it slots in after cleansing.
How — the concentration
5–10 %
The reference range
For most skin. This is where the active is both effective and well tolerated.
≤ 5 %
If your skin is sensitive
More is not better. Irritated skin, on a deeper complexion, marks more easily.
Two reference points, depending on your skin →
ReferencesHakozaki T et al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation. Br J Dermatol. 2002;147(1):20-31.
What comes next — the pairings
No trouble
- Vitamin C — apply it first, then wait fifteen minutes
- Hyaluronic acid — no particular precaution
- Sunscreen — they pair very well in the morning
With caution
- Retinol — one after the other, never together the same night
ReferencesPullar JM, Carr AC, Vissers MCM. The roles of vitamin C in skin health. Nutrients. 2017;9(8):866.
Caution
What to know
- Introduce it on its own, not at the same time as another new active
- Above 10%, the risk of irritation rises with no matching gain
- In doubt, or after a reaction: space it out, then restart lower